Reviewing my 2004 rant against the Atkins diet made me hungry for potatoes, so here is a lineup of some classic potato recipes which I hope you will enjoy... in moderation, of course.

Recipes in brackets are in the PLUS Edition.

Monday's Side Dishes
Chantilly Potatoes
[Franconia Potatoes]

Tuesday's Side Dishes
Hash Brown Potatoes
[Fried Potato Balls]

Wednesday's Side Dishes
French-Fried Potatoes
[Rosti]

Thursday's Side Dishes
Dauphine Potatoes
[Potato Puffs]

Friday's Side Dishes
Potato Chips
[Potatoes Lyonnaise]


Humble mashed potatoes are lifted to heavenly heights with a little whipped cream in this classic French preparation.

Chantilly Potatoes

3 cups (750 ml) mashed potatoes
1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream, whipped until stiff
Salt and white pepper
A pinch of cayenne (optional)
1/2 cup (125 ml) grated Gruyere or Swiss cheese

Form the potatoes into a mound on an ovenproof platter or baking pan. Fold together the remaining ingredients and cover the potatoes with the mixture. Bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven until the cheese is melted and the potatoes are lightly browned, 20 to 30 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

 

This classic dish is a favorite at roadside diners and family-style restaurants for one reason: because it's so darned good.

Hash Brown Potatoes

3 Tbs (45 ml) butter, bacon grease, or vegetable oil
3 cups (750 ml) finely diced peeled potatoes
1/2 onion, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the butter in a heavy non-stick skillet over moderate heat and add the remaining ingredients. Press into a cake with a spatula and cook until browned on the bottom, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent sticking. Flip by placing a large platter over the skillet, inverting the skillet and platter together, and then sliding the potatoes back into the skillet. Continue cooking until the second side is browned. Serves 4 to 6.

 

 

I know you have had French-fries thousands of times, but how many times have you had really great French-fries? That's what I thought. There are two "secrets" to this no-fail recipe: you should use russet baking potatoes (also known as Burbank and Idaho potatoes) that have been aged in a dark, cool place for a couple of weeks, or until you can no longer pierce or scrape the skin off with a fingernail (these are referred to as mature potatoes in the potato business); and you need to fry them twice. Follow this recipe for the best French-fries you've ever cooked.

French-Fried Potatoes

2-3 large mature baking potatoes, peeled
Vegetable oil for deep frying
Salt to taste

Cut the potatoes into 1/4-inch (5 mm) sticks and soak in lukewarm water for 15 minutes. Drain and pat completely dry with a dish towel. Heat the oil to 330F (165C) on a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Fry the potatoes in batches of about 1 cup (250 ml) until the sputtering stops, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels and let rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes. Raise the temperature of the oil to 365F (185C) and fry in batches until crisp and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season generously with salt. Serves 4 to 6.

 

 

This recipe calls for a small amount of pate a choux, the classic French batter used to make cream puffs and éclairs, which is exactly what I suggest you do with the remaining batter.

Dauphine Potatoes

2 cups (500 ml) mashed potatoes
1 cup (250 ml) pate a choux (see below)
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Vegetable oil for deep frying
Salt to taste

Combine the mashed potatoes, pate a choux, and nutmeg and stir to combine. Form into small balls 1 to 1 1/2 inches (2.5-4 cm) in diameter. Fry in vegetable oil that has been heated to 365F (185C) until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt while still hot. Serves 4 to 6.

Pate a Choux

1 cup (250 ml) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) butter
1 cup (250 ml) all-purpose flour
A pinch of salt
4 eggs at room temperature

Combine the milk and butter in a pan and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until it is smooth and no longer sticks to the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat and transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer or food processor. Add the eggs one at a time and process until completely incorporated before adding the next egg. To make cream puff shells, spoon or pipe the batter onto a greased baking sheet, making mounds 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) inches in diameter. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350F (180C) and bake until puffed up and golden brown, about 25 minutes.