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Fish Recipes

Starters

Avocado Stuffed with Smoked Fish
Creamy Tuna Dip
Danish Cured Salmon (Gravlax)
Danish Sardine and Onion Smørrebrød
Eggs Stuffed with Smoked Salmon
German Herring Rolls (Rollmopse)
Greek Smoked Herring Spread (Rengosalata)
Herring Salad
Portuguese Pickled Tuna (Escabeche de Atum)
Portuguese Sardine Butter (Manteiga de Sardinha)
Salmon and Caviar Spread
Salmon and Cucumber Pinwheels
Salmon and Star Fruit Canapés
Salmon Mousse
Salmon Spread
Salmon Tartare
Sardine-Stuffed Deviled Eggs
Scandinavian Herring and Potato Salad
Smoked Fish with Horseradish Sauce
Smoked Salmon Cheesecake
Smoked Salmon Rolls
Soused Grouper
Spanish Fish in Saffron Sauce (Pescado en Amarillo)
Spanish Sardines in Tomato Sauce (Sardinas en Tomate)
Swedish Glassmaster's Herring (Glasmastarsill)
Swedish Mustard Herring (Senapsill)
Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna (Pomodori al Tonno)
Tuna Tapenade
Tuscan White Bean and Tuna Salad (Fagioli Toscanelli con Tonno)
Ukrainian Herring Spread (Oseledetsia)

Soups

Cold Salmon Chowder
Cuban Fish Soup (Potage de Pescado)
Fish and Fennel Soup
New England Fish Chowder
Pine Bark Stew
Provençal Fish Chowder (Aigo Sau)
Puerto Rican Fish Soup
Quick Fish Stew
Quick Tuna Chowder
Russian Fish Soup with Lime and Dill (Ukha)
Saffron Fish Soup
Salmon and Spinach Soup
Salmon Chowder
Salmon Gazpacho
Salmon Soup with Aioli
Tuna and Cheese Chowder
Tuna Chowder

Main Dishes

Bay-Scented Skewered Fish
Broiled Fish Steaks with Garlic Lemon Sauce
Broiled Fish with Oregano and Lime
Broiled Salmon Steaks with Tartar Sauce
Cape Cod Turkey
Chinese Boiled Red Snapper with Fried Cashews
Cod with Scottish Honey Mustard
Fettuccine with Smoked Salmon
Fish and Chips
Foil-Baked Fish
Fried Catfish
Galician Steamed Fish with Tomato Sauce
Greek-Style Halibut
Greek Thessalonian Fish (Plaki Thessaloniki)
Grilled Fish Tacos
Grilled Salmon with Kale
Grilled Salmon with Mustard Butter
Grilled Tuna in Anchovy Sauce
Halibut, Broccoli, and Tomato Casserole
Halibut with Egg and Lemon Sauce
Halibut with Walnut Gratin
Herbed Halibut Veronique
Iroquois Fish Stew
Italian Grilled Fish with Oregano Sauce (Pesce al Salmoriglio)
Italian Tuna with Tomatoes and Bay Leaves (Tonno al Pomodoro e Alloro)
Japanese "Mother and Child" Salmon (Ikura Donburi)
Lemon Halibut
Lime-Ginger Red Snapper
Linguine with Salmon Sauce
Linguine with Tuna and Arugula
Linguine with Tuna, Capers, and Olives
Mexican Fish in Garlic Sauce (Pescado al Mojo de Ajo)
Mexican Fish in Orange Juice (Pescado Naranjado)
Mexican Fish with Cilantro (Pescado con Cilantro)
Mexican Red Snapper a la Veracruzana (Huachinango a la Veracruzana)
Moroccan-Style Fish with Spinach
Mustard-Crusted Salmon
New England Fish Stew
Perch with Cheese Sauce and Grapes
Poached Salmon in Tomato Broth
Poached Salmon with Watercress Sauce
Portuguese Potato, Onion, and Salt Cod Casserole (Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa)
Roasted Salmon with Marinated Lentils
Salade Niçoise
Salmon Fillets in Beurre Noisette
Salmon in Orange Sauce
Salmon in Tomato Cream Sauce
Salmon Quiche
Salmon with Buttered Almonds
Salmon with Three-Melon Salsa
Salmon with Thyme Sauce
Sardinian Fish with Fregola
Sesame-Crusted Salmon
Teriyaki Salmon
Thyme Tuna Steaks
Tuna Noodle Casserole

Starters

Here is an example of early trans-Atlantic commerce. The avocado is native to Central America, but was introduced into North America from Africa, where it was then and still is a popular food crop.

Avocado Stuffed with Smoked Fish

4 hard boiled eggs, peeled
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup (80 ml) olive oil
1/2 lb (250 g) smoked whitefish
2 large ripe avocados
Chopped parsley or cilantro for garnish

Rub the yolks of the eggs through a fine strainer and finely chop the egg whites. Mash the egg yolks and the milk together in a deep bowl. Add the lime juice, salt, and pepper. Beat in the olive oil, a little at a time, to form an emulsion. Remove the skin and small bones from the fish and mix it into the sauce, flaking it with a fork. Add the chopped egg whites and toss gently to combine thoroughly. Just before serving, slice the avocados in half and remove the seeds, along with any discolored parts of the flesh. Divide the fish mixture among the avocado halves, mounding it slightly. Sprinkle with a little chopped parsley or cilantro and serve at once. Serves 4.

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In addition to being quick, easy, and extremely tasty, this dip has the added virtue of being composed of things you probably already have on hand.

Creamy Tuna Dip

1 6-oz (170 g) can tuna, drained
3/4 cup (180 ml) sour cream
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh parsley, chives, or dill
1 Tbs (15 ml) prepared horseradish
1 tsp (5 ml) Worcestershire or soy sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and stir to combine thoroughly. Serve chilled with chips, crackers, pita bread, or raw vegetables for dipping. Makes about 1 1/2 cups (375 ml).

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This dish, one of my family's favorites, is an essential part of any Scandinavian meal in my mind.

Danish Cured Salmon (Gravlax)

2 lbs (900 g) fresh salmon fillet
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh dill
1/4 cup (60 ml) salt
1/4 cup (60 ml) sugar
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground white pepper
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground allspice

Rinse the salmon and dry it thoroughly with paper towels. Place in a glass baking dish and sprinkle with half the dill. Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine. Sprinkle half the mixture over the salmon. Turn the salmon over, sprinkle with the remaining salt mixture, and top with the remaining dill. Cover with plastic wrap, place a flat plate or pot lid on top, and place several cans of food on top for weight. Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. To serve, drain the salmon and cut diagonally into thin slices. Serves 12 as an appetizer.

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This is one of the more popular smørrebrød in Denmark. Use canned Danish or Norwegian sardines for an added taste of authenticity.

Danish Sardine and Onion Smørrebrød

4 thin slices pumpernickel or rye bread, crusts trimmed
4 tsp (20 ml) butter at room temperature
1 4-oz (110 g) can sardines, drained
8 pimiento-stuffed green olives, sliced
4 paper-thin slices onion
4 paper-thin slices lemon
4 sprigs fresh dill or parsley

Spread the bread with butter, being careful to cover the bread completely. Divide the sardines and olives between the pieces of bread and top each with a slice of onion. Garnish with a slice of lemon and a sprig of fresh herb. Makes 4 smørrebrød.

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Here is a tasty and elegant variation on that summertime standby, deviled eggs.

Eggs Stuffed with Smoked Salmon

12 eggs, hard-boiled, peeled, and cut in half
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped smoked salmon
3-4 Tbs (45-60 ml) mayonnaise, or to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh dill
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped capers
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Remove the yolks from the eggs and mash with the remaining ingredients. Fill the egg whites with the yolk mixture using a pastry bag or small spoon. Serve chilled. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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This traditional German appetizer is well known outside of Germany and is usually called by its German name, or simply "rollmops" in English. Seek out imported Matjes herrings, available in jars in the refrigerated section of finer supermarkets, for the most authentic results.

German Herring Rolls (Rollmopse)

12 salt herring fillets, preferably Matjes herring
2 cups (500 ml) cider vinegar
2 cups (500 ml) cold water
5 juniper berries
5 whole allspice
3 whole cloves
8 whole black peppercorns
1 bay (laurel) leaf
1/4 cup Dusseldorf or Dijon mustard
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 large dill pickles
Thinly sliced onion for garnish
Parsley sprigs for garnish

Soak the herring fillets in enough cold water to cover for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator, replacing the water two or three times. Combine the vinegar, water, juniper berries, allspice, cloves, peppercorns and bay leaf in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, then allow to come to room temperature. Drain and pat the herring fillets dry, and lay them skin-side down on a work surface. Spread a teaspoon (5 ml) of mustard over each one, then scatter the capers and onion over the mustard. Cut the dill pickles lengthwise into quarters, and then in half crosswise. Place a wedge of pickle at the narrow end of each fillet and roll the fillets up into small, thick cylinders. Secure the rolled fillets with one or two toothpicks. Pack the rolled fillets on their sides in a glass dish in one or two layers-do not use a metal container. Pour the marinade over the herring, cover the dish with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 5 to 6 days before serving. To serve, arrange them on a platter or on individual serving plates and garnish with onion rings and parsley. Serves 6 to 8.

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Greece has many traditional salata that are usually served as a dip or spread as an appetizer, but like this one, they can also be used to sauce poultry, seafood, and vegetables.

Greek Smoked Herring Spread (Rengosalata)

1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped smoked herring or kipper fillets
3 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1-2 medium potatoes, boiled and peeled
3/4 cup (180 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh dill or parsley for garnish

Puree the herring, scallions, and vinegar in an electric food processor. Mash the potato in a mixing bowl and stir in the herring mixture. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the olive oil and lemon juice to form a coarse paste. Season with salt and pepper (carefully, the herring might be quite salty) and refrigerate for 2 hours or, preferably, overnight. Garnish with chopped fresh herbs and serve with pita bread for dipping. Serves 4 to 6.

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The Omega-3 fatty acids in oily fish such as herring not only lower LDL (bad) cholesterol levels, but they also raise HDL (good) cholesterol. Adding mayonnaise to this salad would negate the healthful effects of the herring, so I have substituted yogurt in this adaptation of a popular northern European dish.

Herring Salad

A 12-oz (336 g) jar pickled herring, drained
2 small onions, thinly sliced
2 tart apples, peeled, cored, quartered, and thinly sliced
1 cup (250 ml) plain yogurt
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh dill

Combine the herring, onions, apples, yogurt, and lemon juice in a bowl and toss to combine thoroughly. Marinate covered in the refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight. Sprinkle with chopped dill before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish might have served as inspiration for the seviches of Latin America, except the fish in this case is cooked before marinating. Serve this as a first course or as the main dish in a light meal.

Portuguese Pickled Tuna (Escabeche de Atum)

1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
3-6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 lbs (900 g) boneless fresh tuna, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice

For the marinade:
2-3 onions, thinly sliced
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1-2 lemons, thinly sliced
2 bay (laurel) leaves, crumbled
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2/3 cup (160 ml) olive oil
1/3 cup (80 ml) red wine vinegar

Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and discard. Saute the tuna in batches until cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes for each batch. Place 1/3 of the tuna in a deep serving bowl or dish and top with 1/3 of the onions, garlic, lemon slices, bay leaves, cilantro, parsley, salt, and pepper. Repeat twice. Drizzle with oil and vinegar and refrigerate covered for 24 to 48 hours. Serve chilled. Serves 4 to 6.

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The Portuguese don't have the rich tradition of cocktail snacks the way neighboring Spain has with their tapas, but this traditional spread is a perennial favorite with a glass of wine before a meal.

Portuguese Sardine Butter (Manteiga de Sardinha)

1 3.75-oz (106 g) can sardines, packed in oil or tomato sauce, drained
6 Tbs (90 ml) butter
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine the ingredients in a bowl and mash with a fork to make a smooth paste. Pack into small ramekins and refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve with crackers, bread, or toast. Serves 4 to 6.

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This recipe is extravagant not only in its use of some rather expensive ingredients, but also for its liberal use of butter, making it a "once in a blue moon" treat.

Salmon and Caviar Spread

4 oz (100 g) fresh salmon fillet, skinned
4 oz (100 g) smoked salmon
4 oz (100 g) butter, at room temperature
Ground white pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) Cognac (optional)
4 oz (100 g) salmon roe

Poach or steam the salmon fillet until it is cooked through. Break into chunks and place in an electric food processor along with the smoked salmon, butter, white pepper, and optional Cognac. Process until smooth. Place the salmon mixture in a bowl and gently fold in the salmon roe. Place in a serving bowl and smooth the top with a knife or decorate with the tines of a fork. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Serve chilled with crackers or toast points. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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This recipe is a cinch to make in advance and cut up just before serving. I haven't given quantities here so you can adapt the recipe depending on the size of your crowd, but you can count on one tortilla serving two to three people-or one hungry linebacker.

Salmon and Cucumber Pinwheels

Cream cheese at room temperature
Chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, or dill
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
10-inch (25 cm) flour tortillas
Thinly sliced smoked salmon
Long, thin slices of English ("seedless") cucumber
made with a vegetable peeler

Combine the cream cheese, herbs, salt, and pepper and spread in a thin layer on the tortillas. Top with salmon and cucumber slices and roll into a log shape. Trim the ends, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 4 hours. Cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) rounds immediately before serving.

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This elegant little finger food offers an interesting and unusual combination of flavors, colors, and textures.

Salmon and Star Fruit Canapés

1/4 lb (110 g) thinly sliced smoked salmon
1 star fruit (carambola), sliced
1/4 cup (60 ml) crème fraîche or sour cream
Chopped fresh chives for garnish

Place a small piece of salmon on top of each slice of star fruit. Top with a small dollop of crème fraîche and sprinkle with chopped chives. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer or hors d'oeuvre.

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This recipe has been a favorite in my family for more than forty years.

Salmon Mousse

2 cups flaked salmon, cooked or canned, skin and bones removed
8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup finely chopped green onions (scallions)
2 Tbs lemon juice
1 Tbs chopped fresh dill weed
1 Tbs Dijon style mustard
1 Tbs mayonnaise
2 packets unflavored gelatin (enough to thicken 4 cups of liquid)
2 cups hot chicken stock or canned broth

In a large bowl mix together the salmon, cream cheese, green onions, lemon juice, dill, mustard and mayonnaise until thoroughly combined. In a different bowl dissolve the gelatin in the hot chicken stock and allow to cool for 30 minutes. Mix with the salmon mixture and pour into a lightly greased 1 1/2 qt (1.5 L) mold. Chill for 2 to 3 hours, until set. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

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The Crumpet Shop in Pike Place Market serves this spread on warm crumpets, but I'm sure it would be great on just about any crackers or thinly sliced toasted bread.

Salmon Spread

6 oz (170 g) Nova cold-smoked salmon (lox)
8 oz (225 g) cream cheese cut into small cubes
Crackers or thinly sliced and toasted bread
Optional garnishes: finely chopped onion or scallions (spring onions), capers, sprigs of dill, finely chopped tomato, or thinly sliced cucumber

Blend the salmon and cream cheese in an electric food processor until the mixture is smooth. Serve with crackers and optional garnishes if desired. Serves 6 to 8.

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Here is a contemporary treatment of a classic dish, substituting fresh salmon for the ground beef in the traditional preparation.

Salmon Tartare

1 1/2 lbs (675 ml) skinless fillet of salmon
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped onion
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Hot sauce to taste (optional)
Lettuce leaves for garnish
1 hard-cooked egg, chopped
3-4 cornichons or gherkins, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh parsley

Chop the salmon with a knife or in a food processor until it is coarsely chopped. Mix with half the chopped onion and the olive oil, salt, pepper, and optional hot sauce. Arrange lettuce leaves on individual serving plates and divide the salmon mixture among them. Top with the remaining onion, chopped egg, cornichons, and parsley. Serve with toast points, crackers, or melba toast. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic New England appetizer might owe its origins to the many Portuguese fishermen and their families who made the area their home in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Sardine-Stuffed Deviled Eggs

12 large hard-cooked eggs, shells removed
2-4 oz (100 g) cans of sardines, thoroughly drained
1 cup (250 ml) mayonnaise
4 Tbs (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
4 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
1 tsp (5 ml) salt, or to taste
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh chives
12 to 24 capers

With a small sharp knife cut a 1/8 inch (1 mm) slice off the bottom of the eggs so they will stand up. Then slice off the top 1/3 of each egg, and chop the scraps of egg white finely and set them aside. Gently squeeze the yolks out of the eggs, being careful not to break the white cases. Mash the yolks and the sardines together with a fork, then beat the mayonnaise into the egg-sardine mixture. Add the lemon juice, mustard, cayenne and salt, mixing thoroughly. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the filling into the egg white cases, dividing it evenly among them and mounding it on top. Mix the reserved chopped whites together with the parsley and chives in a shallow bowl, and dip the filled eggs into the mixture, rolling to coat the tops thoroughly. Place a caper or two on the top of each egg. Stand the eggs on a chilled platter and serve at once, or cover the platter loosely with waxed paper and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 12 eggs.

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With the great Scandinavian tradition of the smorgasbord, it would be inconceivable to offer a selection of small dishes without a selection from that part of the world.

Scandinavian Herring and Potato Salad

1 lb (450 g) small red potatoes, cut into bite-size pieces
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) pickled herring fillets, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) sour cream
2 ribs celery with leaves, chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh chives
Lettuce leaves for garnish

Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender. Drain, cool to room temperature, and combine with the remaining ingredients, tossing to combine. Refrigerate at least 2 hours and serve chilled on a bed of lettuce leaves. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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Seafood was abundant and readily available to early colonists-lobsters and crabs were considered "trash" food and fed to the pigs. Smoking was an ancient method used both in Europe and the New World to preserve fish and meats, and a wide variety of smoked fish was available to the transplanted colonists.

Smoked Fish with Horseradish Sauce

For the sauce:
3/4 cup (180 ml) mayonnaise
3/4 cup (180 ml) sour cream
1 Tbs (15 ml) prepared horseradish, or to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped capers
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the fish:
1 lb (450 g) smoked fish fillets such as trout, salmon, mackerel, or herring, skin and bones removed
Lettuce leaves, thinly sliced onion, thinly sliced radishes, and lemon wedges for garnish

Blend the ingredients for the sauce until thoroughly combined and refrigerate covered until ready to serve. Arrange the smoked fish fillets on lettuce leaves, garnish with sliced onion, radishes, and lemon wedges. Serve with the horseradish sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

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I hope it comes as a surprise to no one that many of the recipes from my visit to Seattle feature the greatest culinary treasure of the Pacific Northwest. Here it is featured in a rich, savory cheesecake from the Totem Smokehouse. Be sure to use hot-smoked salmon and not the uncooked Nova-type cold-smoked salmon for this recipe.

Smoked Salmon Cheesecake

1 Tbs (15 ml) butter at room temperature
1 cup (250 ml) Italian-flavored bread crumbs
1 cup (250 ml) chopped walnuts
1 lb (450 g) cream cheese at room temperature
1/4 cup (60 ml) sugar
3 eggs
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) chopped fresh basil
6 oz (170 g) hot-smoked salmon, skin removed, crumbled

Combine the butter, bread crumbs, and 2/3 cup (160 ml) walnuts in a bowl and stir to combine thoroughly. Press into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (22 cm) springform pan and set aside. Beat the cream cheese and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and beat until smooth. Add the lemon juice, garlic, and basil and beat until thoroughly combined. Pour into the springform pan and bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven until the filling is set in the center, 25 to 30 minutes. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Remove the cheesecake from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving and allow to come to room temperature. Sprinkle the smoked salmon and the remaining walnuts over the top of the cheesecake and cut into thin slices. Serves 12 to 16.

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Rather than give quantities for this recipe, I'll just list the ingredients and give the procedure, and you decide how many to make based on the number of mouths you have to feed. Plan of 3 to 6 per person as an hors d'oeuvre.

Smoked Salmon Rolls

Smoked salmon
Cream cheese
Chopped fresh chives or parsley
Sweet pickles or gherkins, cut into small pieces

Cut the salmon into strips about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) wide and 2 inches (5 cm) long. Mix the cream cheese and fresh herbs together and spread on the salmon pieces. Roll the salmon around a piece of pickle and secure with a toothpick.

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"Soused" is a term used in parts of the Caribbean to describe a dish that is pickled. This dish is also known as mojo en escabeche in the Spanish speaking islands.

Soused Grouper

3 lbs (700 g) red grouper, sea bass, haddock, or snapper fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cups (500 ml) olive oil
3 medium onions, thinly sliced
3 whole cloves garlic
3 bay leaves
12 whole peppercorns
1 cup (250 ml) vinegar
1 cup (250 ml) small pitted green olives
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers (optional)

Cut the fish into 1 inch (3 cm) pieces and season with salt and pepper. Heat 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the olive oil in a heavy skillet and fry the pieces of fish. Remove with a slotted spoon and place in a deep non-metallic bowl. Combine the onions, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, and vinegar in the skillet and simmer over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onions are tender. Add the remaining olive oil, olives, and optional capers and pour this over the fish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours. Serve cold on a bed of lettuce leaves. Serves 6 to 8.

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Use any firm, white fish steaks such as halibut, swordfish, cod, or shark for this favorite Spanish tapa.

Spanish Fish in Saffron Sauce (Pescado en Amarillo)

1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped onion
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped green bell pepper (capsicum)
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped tomato
1 bay (laurel) leaf
2 Tbs (30 ml) brandy or Cognac
1/4 cup (60 ml) fish or chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Several strands of saffron
A grating of fresh nutmeg
3/4 lb (675 g) firm white fish cut into 1-inch (3 cm) cubes

Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic, onion, and green pepper until tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients except the fish and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the fish and cook covered until the fish is firm and opaque, about 10 minutes. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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In Spain, where this dish is frequently served as a tapa in bars, it is usually made with fresh sardines. Since most of us are not lucky enough to have access to them, this recipe calls for the canned fish.

Spanish Sardines in Tomato Sauce (Sardinas en Tomate)

3 to 4 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 green bell pepper (capsicum), seeded and coarsely chopped
1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 Tbs (45 ml) chopped parsley
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
1 tsp (5 ml) hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cumin
1/4 tsp (1 ml) paprika
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry white wine (optional)
14 oz (400 g) canned sardines (preferably in olive oil), drained
Lemon wedges for garnish
Toasted bread for garnish

Combine the tomatoes, bell pepper, onion, garlic, and parsley in a food processor and process until all ingredients are finely chopped. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and add the tomato mixture. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes, cumin, paprika, salt, pepper, and wine and simmer until the sauce is reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add the drained sardines and simmer for 5 minutes, until the sardines are heated through. Serve hot, cold, or at room temperature with lemon wedges and toast. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish get's its name from the glass jar used to marinate the herring.

Swedish Glassmaster's Herring (Glasmastarsill)

2 red onions, thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1 16-oz (450 ml) herring fillets in wine sauce, drained
1/4 cup (60 ml) grated fresh horseradish
1 Tbs (15 ml) grated fresh ginger
1 Tbs (15 ml) pickling spices
1 tsp (5 ml) whole allspice, crushed
1 Tsp (5 ml) mustard seeds
3/4 cup (180 ml) distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar

Layer half the onion and half the carrot in a glass jar or deep glass bowl. Add all of the drained herring. Mix the spices together and sprinkle over the herring, followed by the remaining onion and carrot. Combine the vinegar and sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and pour over the herring mixture. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 3 days. Serve directly from the jar or bowl. Serves 4 to 6.

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No self-respecting Scandinavian would set out a smorgasbord with only one type of herring, so here is another popular version of the ubiquitous fish.

Swedish Mustard Herring (Senapsill)

1 16-oz (450 ml) herring fillets in wine sauce, drained
3 egg yolks
1 Tbs (15 ml) Swedish- or German-style mustard
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1 tsp (5 ml) sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) vegetable oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) dried dill weed

Place the herring in a bowl. Whisk together the egg yolks, mustard, vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly, to make a thick emulsion. Stir in the dill and pour over the herring. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours. Serves 4 to 6.

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It is the tradition in my family that a person gets to choose the menu for their birthday dinner. Naturally, that meant that my mother prepared whatever we wanted for all those years, and being the only cook in the house was treated to dinner in a fine restaurant on her own birthday. When I finally became able enough in the kitchen to put together a meal worthy of an occasion such as her birthday, this was the first course that I served.

Tomatoes Stuffed with Tuna (Pomodori al Tonno)

6 ripe tomatoes
Salt
2-7 oz (195 g) cans tuna packed in olive oil, drained
1/2 cup (125 ml) plus 2 Tbs (30 ml) mayonnaise
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Parsley leaves for garnish

Slice the tops off the tomatoes and scoop out the seeds and most of the dividing walls inside. Sprinkle the insides of the tomatoes lightly with salt and invert on paper towels for 1/2 hour to drain the excess moisture. Mix together the tuna, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the mayonnaise, capers, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper, and fill the tomatoes with the tuna mixture. Spread the remaining mayonnaise on top, and garnish with parsley leaves. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 6.

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You can use whatever you have on hand for this quick and easy dish, but imported Italian tuna packed in olive oil and good quality green olives such as niçoise or picholine will be well worth the small investment.

Tuna Tapenade

1 can (6 oz, 170 g) tuna, drained
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, softened
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped green olives
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped capers
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh basil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and mix well, mashing with a fork. Serve at room temperature with crackers, pita bread, or thinly sliced French bread. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic dish from northern Italy may be served by itself as a first course or as part of a more elaborate antipasto.

Tuscan White Bean and Tuna Salad (Fagioli Toscanelli con Tonno)

1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cans (15 oz, 420 g each) cannellini or other white beans such as white kidney, Great Northern, or navy beans, rinsed and drained
2 scallions (spring onions, green and white parts, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 7-ounce (195 g) can tuna, preferably Italian tuna
packed in olive oil

Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and pour over the drained beans. Add the scallions and parsley and toss gently. Break the tuna into chunks and arrange on top of the beans. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.

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Being close to the Baltic Sea, herring has been a staple of the Ukrainian diet since ancient times. Nowadays we're lucky that pickled herring is available almost everywhere.

Ukrainian Herring Spread (Oseledetsia)

2 cups (500 ml) pickled herring in wine sauce, drained and finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 apple, peeled, cored, and finely chopped
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
2 Tbs (30 ml) sour cream
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry bread crumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Thinly sliced bread or crackers

Combine the herring, onion, and apple in a bowl. Finely chop the egg whites and add to the bowl. Mash the egg yolks and sour cream together and add to the bowl. Add the bread crumbs, salt (careful, the herring is already salty), and pepper and stir to combine. Refrigerate covered for 2 hours or overnight before serving with thinly sliced bread or crackers. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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Soups

Depending on the type of milk you use, this can be a virtually fat-free fish soup, and don't forget about those good Omega-3 fatty acids in the salmon.

Cold Salmon Chowder

4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) low-fat or fat-free milk
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped
6-8 oz (170-225 g) cooked salmon, skin and bones removed, flaked
1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream (optional)
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry sherry (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh chives, dill, or parsley for garnish

Bring the milk, onion, celery, and bell pepper to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the salmon, optional cream, optional sherry, salt, and pepper. Puree in batches in an electric blender or food processor. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours and adjust the seasoning before serving cold, garnished with chopped fresh herbs. Serves 4 to 6.

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This traditional soup is among the easiest soups to make, and your modest efforts will be rewarded with a true taste of the island.

Cuban Fish Soup (Potage de Pescado)

1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4-6 cloves garlic, crushed
4 large tomatoes, chopped
6 cups (1.5 L) fish stock or bottled clam juice
2 lbs (900 g) firm white fish such as cod, tied in cheesecloth
3-4 large potatoes, peeled and diced
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped parsley
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cumin
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Hot sauce to taste (optional)
Lime wedges for garnish

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the onion until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients except for the lime wedges and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the fish from the pot, remove it from the cheesecloth, and flake with a fork. Puree the soup, working in batches, in an electric blender or food processor. Add the flaked fish and serve hot or cold, garnished with lime wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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As always, base your choice of fish for this soup on whatever is freshest. When in doubt, ask your fishmonger to let you smell it before buying.

Fish and Fennel Soup

2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1 leek, white and light green parts, chopped and thoroughly rinsed
1 fennel bulb, chopped
6 cups (1.5 L) fish or vegetable stock
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1/2 lb (225 g) small dried pasta suitable for soups
1 lb (450 g) firm, white fish such as sea bass, halibut, cod, monkfish, or catfish, skinned and cut into 1-inch (3 cm) pieces
1/4 lb (110 g) shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) cornstarch (cornflour) mixed with
2 Tbs (30 ml) cold water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the leek and fennel until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the stock and optional wine and bring to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until almost done, about 8 minutes. Add the fish, shrimp, and tomatoes and simmer just until the fish and shrimp are firm and opaque, about 3 minutes. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir until the soup is slightly thickened. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve garnished with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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Please note that if you can't find a whole haddock or cod, substitute steaks from either fish and ask your fishmonger to throw in some bones for the stock.

New England Fish Chowder

1/4 lb (110 g) salt pork, rind removed, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice
1 cup (250 ml) coarsely chopped onions
A 3 to 3 1/2 lb (1.2-1.5 Kg) whole haddock or cod, body cut into 1-inch (3 cm) steaks, head and tail reserved
2 cups (500 ml) water
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 cups (1 L) milk
2 Tbs (45 ml) butter, cut into small pieces

Brown the salt pork in a large heavy pot over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until they are crisp. Add the onions and cook until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved fish head and tail and water to the pot and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the potatoes, thyme, salt, and pepper and reduce the heat. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the fish steaks and simmer partially covered for 10 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. Remove and discard the head and tail. Using a slotted spoon, remove the fish steaks and remove and discard the skin and bones. Cut the meat into 1-inch (3 cm) chunks and return to the soup. Add the milk and butter and return the soup to a simmer over low heat. Traditionally the soup is left to sit at room temperature for no more than an hour and reheated immediately prior to serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish, an old-fashioned favorite in the Carolinas, apparently got its name for the pine boughs used to cover the pot as it cooked outdoors. This modern version needs no lumber and can be cooked indoors.

Pine Bark Stew

6 sliced bacon, chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 15-oz (425 g) cans tomatoes with their liquid
About 2 cups (500 ml) diced potatoes
2 Tbs (30 ml) Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 lbs (900 g) skinless fillets of any firm fish

Cook the bacon in a large heavy pot over moderate heat until some of the fat has been rendered, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients except the fish and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Add the fish and cook just until the fish is firm and opaque, about 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic fish stew from southern France is always served with the rouille accompaniment, so please don't skip that portion of the recipe.

Provençal Fish Chowder (Aigo Sau)

2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) skinless fillets of firm white fish, cut into bite-size pieces
6 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Bouquet garni made from bay (laurel) leaves, celery leaves, parsley, and orange peel
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
6 cups (1/5 L) fish stock or water
6-8 slices French bread, toasted and rubbed with a clove of garlic
Rouille (see below)

Arrange the fish in a single layer in a lightly oiled large skillet or heat-proof casserole. Layer the potatoes on top, followed by the garlic, onion, and tomato. Season with salt and pepper and add the bouquet garni. Drizzle the olive oil over everything and add the stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low and simmer covered until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Place a slice of toasted French bread in each of 6 to 8 serving bowls and ladle the soup over them Serve rouille on the side. Serves 6 to 8.

Rouille

1 medium potato, peeled, coarsely chopped, and cooked
until tender in boiling salted water
3-4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) pimientos
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

Combine all ingredients in an electric blender or food processor and process until smooth. Stir into fish soup, to taste, at the table. Makes about 1 1/2 cups (375 ml).

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Although they live on an island, many Puerto Ricans seem to prefer chicken and pork to seafood. This recipe demonstrates that, when so inclined, they can also do wonders with fish.

Puerto Rican Fish Soup

1 whole 4 lb (1.8 Kg) white-fleshed fish

For the rub:
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) dried oregano, crushed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1 tsp (5 ml) red wine vinegar

For the soup:
8 cups (2 L) water
6-8 cloves garlic
1 bay (laurel) leaf
15 whole black peppercorns
1 lb (450 g) onions, peeled and quartered
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry sherry
3 cups (750 ml) canned whole tomatoes with their juice

Clean the fish and remove the head and tail. Discard the tail and cut the fish into 1-inch (2 cm) thick slices. Combine the rub ingredients in a small bowl and rub into the fish slices. Combine the fish head with the water, garlic, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a large pot and bring to a boil. Simmer covered for 1 hour. Strain the soup and return the broth to the pot. Add the fish slices and the remaining ingredients and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.

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Here is a healthy fish stew you can have ready in about 20 minutes.

Quick Fish Stew

4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) potatoes, peeled and diced
1 lb (450 g) firm, white-fleshed fish such as snapper, halibut, or cod
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) fish stock or chicken stock
1 15-oz (425 g) can Italian plum tomatoes, chopped, with their liquid
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1 tsp (5 ml) fennel seed, crushed
2 bay (laurel) leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the garlic for 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here's another quick and easy soup whose ingredients are probably already in your cupboard.

Quick Tuna Chowder

3-4 slices bacon, chopped
1 onion, chopped
4 cups (1 L) milk
About 1 cup (250 ml) diced potatoes
1 6-oz (170 g) can tuna, drained
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish

Cook the bacon in a large heavy pot over moderate heat until some of the fat has been rendered, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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There was a day when fishmongers gave away the trimmings, but those days are past in most places. You can still get trimmings, but you'll probably have to pay a little for them. They're worth the price for this traditional fish soup.

Russian Fish Soup with Lime and Dill (Ukha)

For the stock:
8 cups (2 L) water
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) fish trimmings (heads, tails, and
bones of any white-fleshed fish)
2 onions, sliced
3 sprigs parsley
1 bay (laurel) leaf
6 whole black peppercorns
Salt to taste

For the soup:
1 lb (450 g) fish fillets: sea bass, striped bass, or any
other white-fleshed fish
1 lime, thinly sliced
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped fresh dill

Combine the ingredients for the stock in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 30 minutes. Strain the stock through a fine sieve or cheesecloth, pressing on the trimmings and vegetables to extract as much liquid as possible before discarding them. Return the stock to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the fish fillets and reduce the heat to low. Simmer just until the fish turns opaque and firm to the touch, 3 to 4 minutes. Serve garnished with lime slices and chopped dill. Serves 4 to 6.

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It is de rigueur among food writers to mention that saffron is the world's most expensive spice. What usually goes unmentioned is that a very small quantity of it is all that's necessary for it to impart its unique color and flavor. Be sure to buy only the saffron threads because there are many things that can be ground into a fine yellow powder and be called saffron.

Saffron Fish Soup

2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
2 strips bacon, chopped
1/4 lb (110 g) waxy potatoes, diced
1/4 lb (110 g) parsnips, diced
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 onion, chopped
4 cups (1 L) fish or vegetable stock
A pinch of saffron thread
1 bay (laurel) leaf
1 2-inch (5 cm) strip lemon zest
1/2 lb (225 g) firm, white fish such as sea bass, halibut, cod, monkfish, or catfish, skinned and cut into 1-inch (3 cm) pieces
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, chopped

Heat the oil in a large pot and saute the bacon for about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes, parsnips, celery, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Add the stock, saffron, bay leaf, and lemon zest and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the vegetables are almost tender, about 8 minutes. Add the fish and simmer just until the fish is firm and opaque, about 8 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and lemon zest and serve garnished with chopped scallions. Serves 4 to 6.

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Fresh homemade soup doesn't get any easier than this. You can use thinly sliced fresh salmon for this recipe, but I like the flavor of smoked salmon.

Salmon and Spinach Soup

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) chicken stock
1 lb (450 g) smoked salmon, thinly sliced
3-4 cups (750 ml-1 L) chopped fresh spinach leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the butter in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the onions until tender but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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We Americans tend to associate salmon with the Pacific Northwest and Alaska, but guess what lies in between those places. On the basis of square miles of salmon territory, Canada has us beat by a mile-or several thousand square miles, to be more precise-and this is a recipe I picked up during my last trip north.

Salmon Chowder

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 ribs celery, diced
2 medium carrots, diced
2 medium potatoes, diced
2 cups (500 ml) fish stock or water
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1 lb (450 g) skinless salmon fillets, cut into
1/2-inch (1 cm) pieces
2 cups (500 ml) milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh chives or parsley for garnish

Heat the butter in a large saucepan over moderate heat and saute the onions and celery until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, fish stock, and optional wine and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 15 minutes. Add the salmon and cook an additional 5 minutes. Add the milk and bring to a simmer-do not boil. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with fresh herbs. Serves 4 to 6.

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This no-cook soup can literally be assembled in a few minutes, so you might consider adding a can of salmon to your pantry if there isn't one there already.

Salmon Gazpacho

6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable juice cocktail or tomato juice
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
2-3 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Hot sauce to taste (optional)
1 15-oz (425 g) can (or 2 7.5-oz cans) salmon, drained and flaked
Chopped parsley or cilantro (coriander leaves) for garnish
Lime wedges for garnish

Combine the vegetable juice, cucumber, tomatoes, bell pepper, scallions, garlic, salt, pepper, and optional hot sauce in a non-reactive bowl and chill in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 hours. Divide the salmon between 4 to 6 bowls and ladle the soup over it. Garnish with chopped fresh herbs and serve with lime wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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Emmett Watson's Oyster Bar is a Seattle institution, and their salmon soup is world-renowned. You can add just about any seafood you like as long as you don't forget the salmon.

Salmon Soup with Aioli

For the aioli:
4-6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 egg
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
'Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

For the soup:
1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 cups (1 L) clam juice
1 15-oz (425 g) can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried oregano
A pinch of red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) skinless salmon fillets cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 lb (225 g) firm white fish such as cod, halibut, or red snapper, cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 lb (225 g) clams, scrubbed
1/2 lb (225 g) mussels, scrubbed and debearded
4-6 thick slices hearty bread, toasted until crisp

To make the aioli, combine the garlic, egg, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in an electric blender or food processor and process for about 2 minutes. Add the olive oil in a thin stream while the machine is running and process until thick and smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Heat the oil in a large pot over moderate heat and saute the onion and garlic until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the clam juice, tomatoes, optional wine, oregano, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the seafood just before you are ready to serve and simmer until the fish is firm and opaque, 5 to 7 minutes. Discard any clams or mussels that do not open. Place the toasted bread in four to six soup bowls and ladle the soup on top. Drizzle with aioli and serve additional aioli on the side for diners to add at the table. Serves 4 to 6.

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Most of us think that canned tuna is only for tuna salad and casseroles. Most of us are wrong. I offer this quick and easy soup as proof.

Tuna and Cheese Chowder

3 Tbs (45 ml) butter or olive oil
1/2 onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour
2 cups (500 ml) fish or chicken stock
2 cups (500 ml) milk
1 7-oz (200 g) can tuna, drained
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) shredded cheddar cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the butter in a pot over moderate heat and saute the onion and celery until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook for 3 minutes. Add the stock and milk and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Add the tuna and cheese and cook until the cheese is melted, stirring frequently. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serves 4 to 6.

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Soup recipes don't come any easier or more economical than this one, and I'll bet you already have the ingredients on hand.

Tuna Chowder

2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
2-3 potatoes, peeled and diced
1/2 onion, chopped
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried sage
1/4 tsp (1 ml) paprika or cayenne
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 cups (750 ml) milk
2 carrots, sliced
2 ribs celery, sliced
1 7-oz (198 g) can chunk-style tuna, drained

Combine the chicken stock, half the potatoes, and the onion in a pot and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Add the sage, paprika, salt, and pepper and puree in an electric blender or food processor. Return to the pot and add the remaining potatoes, milk, carrots, and celery. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer covered until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Break the tuna into chunks, add to the soup, and simmer for 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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Main Dishes

Here is a technique for grilling fish which you will probably want to try with shrimp and chicken, too. The bay leaves lend their unique aroma to the meat as is cooks, and it can be done over coals or under the broiler so you won't want to throw this recipe out at the end of the summer.

Bay-Scented Skewered Fish

1 small onion, coarsely chopped
4 Tbs (60 ml) lemon juice
4 tsp (20 ml) olive oil
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 lbs (700 g) firm fish steaks (such as halibut or swordfish) cut 1 in (2.5 cm) thick
20 to 25 large bay leaves (laurel leaves in some parts of the world)
2 cups boiling water.

Skin and remove any bones from the fish and cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Combine with the onion, half the lemon juice, half the olive oil, the cayenne, and the salt and pepper in a bowl. Toss to combine ingredients and refrigerate for 4 hours. Meanwhile, pour the boiling water over the bay leaves in a heat proof bowl and let them soak for 2 to 4 hours. Drain the bay leaves and remove the fish from the marinade, discarding the marinade and the onion. Thread the fish and bay leaves alternately on metal skewers, pressing them together firmly. Combine the remaining lemon juice and olive oil and brush it on the fish. Cook over hot coals or under the broiler for 8 to 10 minutes (depending on the heat), turning occasionally, until the fish is opaque and firm to the touch. Serves 4.

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Most of my favorite fish recipes have the added virtue of being quick and easy to prepare. This one is no exception.

Broiled Fish Steaks with Garlic Lemon Sauce

1 1/2 to 2 lbs (750 g-1 Kg) fish steaks (any fish)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 Tbs (45 ml) bread crumbs
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) paprika
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried tarragon
3 Tbs (45 ml) white wine or fish stock

Season the fish steaks on both sides with salt and pepper and broil from 3 to 5 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of the steaks. The fish should be firm to the touch when done. Combine the bread crumbs, garlic, lemon juice, paprika, and tarragon in a small bowl. Add the wine or fish stock and stir until thick and creamy. Top the fish with the sauce immediately prior to serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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I'm sure you'll add this quick and easy method of cooking fish to your list of favorite recipes after you've tasted it.

Broiled Fish with Oregano and Lime

1 1/2 lbs (675 g) thin fillets of white fish such as tilapia or perch
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) lime juice
3 Tbs (45 ml) chopped fresh parsley
1/2 tsp (1 ml) chopped fresh oregano, or 1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried

Season the fish fillets on both sides with salt and pepper and place in a single layer in a broiler pan. Drizzle with the olive oil and lime juice and cook under a preheated broiler until opaque and firm to the touch, 4 to 6 minutes, depending on thickness. Sprinkle with the chopped herbs and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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If you want to know a sure way to light up my face, just give me salmon. This tartar sauce recipe might also make you swear off the store-bought stuff.

Broiled Salmon Steaks with Tartar Sauce

4 to 6 salmon steaks
2 to 3 Tbs (30-45 ml) soy sauce
2 to 3 Tbs (30-45 ml) lemon juice

Marinade the salmon steaks in the soy sauce and lemon juice for 30 minutes. Place the salmon steaks, along with the marinade, in a broiler pan about 6 inches (15 cm) below the heat source and broil approximately 5 minutes per side, basting once or twice. The fish is done when it is opaque and firm to the touch. Serves 4 to 6.

Tartar Sauce

1 cup (250 ml) mayonnaise
1 hard-boiled egg, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped sweet pickle
or sweet pickle relish
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped parsley
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped shallots or onion
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped capers (optional)
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped green olives (optional)
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
1 tsp (5 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Makes about 1 1/4 cup (300 ml).

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"Cape Cod turkey" has been a euphemism for baked cod since at least 1805. Some say it was named in the spirit of the Thanksgiving turkey by those who were grateful for this bounty from the sea, and others suggest that it was so named in order to make the though of eating fish on Friday's more palatable to the Catholics of Boston.

Cape Cod Turkey

1 whole, cleaned cod or other fish with firm white flesh, about
3 lbs (1.35 Kg)

For the stuffing:
3 cups (750 ml) bread crumbs
3 eggs, beaten
1 onion, chopped
1 dill pickle, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) melted butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine the ingredients for the stuffing in a bowl and stir to combine. Place in the cavity of the fish and place the fish on a baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish flakes easily and is cooked through, about 45 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.

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A whole cooked fish represents togetherness and abundance, and Chinese cooks usually cook their fish with the head and tail attached for added flavor. If this doesn't appeal to you, you may use fish fillets in the following recipe.

Chinese Boiled Red Snapper with Fried Cashews

Equal parts water and chicken stock
1 large onion, sliced
2 ribs celery with green tops, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
6 thin slices fresh ginger
1/2 cup (125 ml) Chinese wine or dry sherry
12 whole black peppercorns
1 whole red snapper, about 3 lbs (1.3 Kg) or 2 lbs (900 g) red snapper fillets

For the dressing:
1/4 cup (60 ml) peanut or vegetable oil
1 cup (250 ml) unsalted cashews
1 Tbs (15 ml) soy sauce
2 tsp (10 ml) sesame oil
2 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts,
thinly sliced

Place enough water and chicken stock to cover the fish in a wok or large skillet-do not add the fish yet. Add the onion, celery, carrot, ginger, wine, and peppercorns and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer for 5 minutes and add the fish. Return to the boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer covered until the fish is done, 8 to 10 minutes. Carefully remove the fish to a warm platter. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a separate wok or skillet over moderate heat and saute the cashews until light golden brown. Remove the cashews with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels, keeping the remaining oil hot. Combine the soy sauce and sesame oil and pour the mixture over the fish. Carefully pour the hot oil over the fish. Garnish with the cashews and scallions and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6. Note: The liquid remaining from poaching the fish can be strained and served as a soup if desired.

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Cod is one of the many fishes the Scottish people harvest from the cold waters surrounding their country. Any firm, white fish may be substituted. Scottish honey mustard is difficult to find in other parts of the world, but you can make a reasonable facsimile by adding honey to whole-grain mustard, as in this recipe.

Cod with Scottish Honey Mustard

4-6 thick cod fillets, about 6 oz (150 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 Tbs (60 ml) whole-grain mustard
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter at room temperature
1 Tbs (15 ml) honey
Grated zest of 1 orange

Season the cod fillets with salt and pepper and place them in a buttered baking dish. Mix together the mustard, butter, honey, and orange zest, reserving a little orange zest for garnish. Spread the mustard mixture over the cod fillets and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish is cooked and firm to the touch, about 30 minutes. Garnish with the reserved orange zest and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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If you decide to add the salmon roe to this recipe, be sure to buy a brand that contains no food coloring or it will run and ruin the appearance of this dish. It's more expensive, but well worth the additional expense.

Fettuccine with Smoked Salmon

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1/2 lb (225 g) thinly sliced smoked salmon, cut into thin strips
2 Tbs (30 ml) brandy (optional)
Grated zest of 2 lemons (about 2 tsp, 10 ml)
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) fettuccine or other pasta shape, cooked according to package directions and drained
About 4 Tbs (60 ml) salmon roe (optional)

Heat the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and add the salmon, stirring to coat with the butter. Add the optional brandy, half the lemon zest, and cream and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cooked pasta to the skillet along with the remaining lemon zest and toss to coat the pasta with the sauce. Garnish with salmon roe if desired and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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This is perhaps the most famous of all British dishes, and you'll find it on menus in restaurants and pubs and sold by street vendors all over the British Isles. You can use improvised equipment, but the best results will come from a thermostatically-controlled deep fryer with a basket.

Fish and Chips

1 cup (250 ml) self-rising flour
2/3 cup (160 ml) water
1 1/2-2 lbs (675-900 g) potatoes cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) strips
4-6 pieces skinless cod fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Oil for deep frying
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lemon wedges for garnish
Malt vinegar for garnish

Stir together the flour and water until smooth and allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Rinse the potatoes under running water, drain, and pat dry. Heat the oil in a deep fryer to 300F (150C) and fry the potatoes in batches until soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Raise the temperature of the oil to 375F (190C). Season the fish with salt and pepper, dip in the batter, and fry two pieces at a time until crisp and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Drain the fish on paper towels. Add the potatoes to the oil and cook until crisp and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with salt, and serve with lemon wedges and malt vinegar. Serves 4 to 6.

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There are many fussy variations on this concept including wrapping the fish in parchment paper and baking it inside a mound of salt, but they all boil down to one thing: keeping the moisture and flavors from escaping as the fish cooks. This procedure not only makes the fish more flavorful, but it also protects against the drying effects of over-cooking, giving the hurried home cook a few minutes of latitude when it comes to timing. Feel free to serve this dish foil wrapper and all for an unusual presentation.

Foil-Baked Fish

4-6 cups (1-1.5 L) fresh spinach leaves, trimmed and thoroughly washed
4-6 fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each, firm fish such as salmon, halibut, or cod
1/2 tsp (23 ml) ground cumin
1/2 tsp (2 ml) crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 Tbs (45 ml) orange juice
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) grated fresh ginger
2-3 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, chopped

Set out 4 to 6 rectangles of aluminum foil about 10x12 inches (25x30 cm). Divide the spinach among the pieces of foil, mounding it in the center. Season the fish fillets with cumin, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper and place on top of the spinach. Whisk together the orange juice, olive oil, and ginger and drizzle over the fish. Sprinkle with the chopped scallions. Wrap the foil around the fish, folding the edges over to seal them. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. Cut the foil pouches open carefully-the escaping steam will be very hot-before serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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It came as quite a surprise to me that restaurants in rural Georgia that advertise seafood usually offer nothing more than catfish. Fortunately the catfish is always fresh and good, and is invariably prepared in the manner of this recipe. Any firm fish fillets can be used, but don't try telling that to a Southern cook.

Fried Catfish

3-4 lbs (1.5-2 Kg) catfish fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) cornmeal
Lard or vegetable oil for deep frying

Season the catfish fillets with salt and pepper and coat them with cornmeal. Heat enough lard or oil to fill a heavy iron skillet to a depth of about 1/2 inch (1 cm) over high heat, until it is very hot but not smoking. Fry the fillets, 3 or 4 at a time, until evenly browned, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish from the Northwestern corner of Spain is as tasty a method for preparing fish as you'll find anywhere.

Galician Steamed Fish with Tomato Sauce

2 lbs (1 Kg) firm, white fish fillets such as haddock, halibut, or cod
1 onion, peeled and quartered
1 bay leaf
8 to 12 whole black peppercorns
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
4 to 6 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine
3 Tbs (45 ml) capers
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped chives
1 tsp (5 ml) paprika
Cayenne pepper to taste
White wine or sherry vinegar

Place the fish, quartered onion, bay leaf, and peppercorns on a piece of aluminum foil that has been lightly coated with a few drops of olive oil. Fold the foil over the fish and crimp the edges tightly. Place in a steamer and cook until the fish is firm, 15 to 20 minutes. Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic and onion until tender but not brown. Add the tomatoes, wine, capers, chives, paprika, and cayenne. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Place the fish on a serving platter or individual serving plates and spoon the sauce on top. Serve vinegar at the table for diners to serve themselves. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here is a traditional Greek treatment for fish that has been adapted to a fish of the cold waters of the north Atlantic. Any firm, white-fleshed fish can be used instead of halibut.

Greek-Style Halibut

1 can (15 oz, 425 g) tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 lemons with rind, seeded and chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh oregano, or 1 tsp (5 ml) dried
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 halibut steaks, about 1/2 lb (225 g) each
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine

Combine the tomatoes, onion, lemons, garlic, olive oil, oregano, salt, and pepper in a bowl, tossing to combine. This mixture can be made up to 3 hours in advance. Place the halibut steaks in a lightly oiled baking pan and spread the tomato mixture over them. Pour the wine into the pan and bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven until the fish is firm and opaque in the center, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter or individual serving plates and spoon the pan juices over the fish. Serves 4 to 6.

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Thessaly is a part of Eastern Greece bordering on the Aegean Sea, and this is one of their favorite ways of cooking the seafood that is plentiful there. For a truly authentic taste you'll need the sweet red Greek wine called mavrodaphne, but a good ruby port makes an excellent substitute.

Greek Thessalonian Fish (Plaki Thessaloniki)

1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
2 lbs (900 g) fillets of firm white fish such as halibut, sea bass, or cod
4 onions, thinly sliced
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 15-oz (425 g) can chopped tomatoes with their liquid
1/2 cup (125 ml) Greek mavrodaphne wine or other sweet red wine
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped parsley
1 tsp (5 ml) chopped fresh oregano or 1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cinnamon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Use half the oil to grease a baking dish and place the fish in the dish in a single layer. Set aside. Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the onions and garlic until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer covered for 10 minutes. Pour the sauce over the fish and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish is firm and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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Fish tacos first hit the food scene in Southern California and their popularity has now spread nationwide.

Grilled Fish Tacos

2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) swordfish, halibut, cod, monkfish, or other firm fish, cut into 1-inch (3 cm) cubes
1/4 cup (60 ml) lime or lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
Chopped fresh jalapeños or other hot chiles to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
12-18 corn tortillas, heated in a skillet, steamer, or microwave
Optional garnishes:
Shredded lettuce
Salsa
Sour cream
Thinly sliced radishes
Guacamole
Lime or lemon wedges

Combine the fish, lime juice, cilantro, jalapeños, salt, and pepper and marinate refrigerated for 1 hour. Discard the marinade and thread the fish onto skewers. Cook over hot coals until the fish is firm and opaque in the center, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove the fish from the skewers and place on a plate. Place the warm tortillas in a basket and allow the diners to make their own tacos with the garnishes they prefer. Allow three tacos per person. Serves 4 to 6.

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This recipe produces salmon with a crispy skin, a very popular technique in Asian cooking. The ginger and garlic in the kale complete the Asian-inspired theme while the kale provides many valuable nutrients.

Grilled Salmon with Kale

1-1 1/2 lbs (450-675 g) kale or other dark leafy green such as collard or mustard greens
About 4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) grated fresh ginger
1 Tbs (15 ml) soy sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) dark sesame oil
4-6 salmon fillets with skin, about 6 oz (170 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Wash the kale thoroughly and remove the thicker portions of the stems and ribs. Steam or boil in salted water until tender, about 10 minutes (collards and mustard greens will take longer). Drain, rinse in cold water, squeeze dry, and chop. Heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic for 1 minute-do not brown. Add the kale and saute for 3 minutes. Add the ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and keep warm while the salmon cooks. Score the skin of the salmon into a diamond pattern with a sharp knife. Rub the salmon with the remaining olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the salmon skin side down over hot coals, or place skin side up under a preheated broiler and cook until the skin is crisp and the salmon is firm to the touch and cooked through, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the heat of the fire. Arrange the kale on a serving platter or individual serving plates and place the salmon on top, skin side up. Serves 4 to 6.

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Consider this recipe more of a suggestion rather than a true recipe because just about any fish can be substituted for the salmon, and the butter goes equally well on grilled beef, chicken, and pork.

Grilled Salmon with Mustard Butter

4 oz (125 g) unsalted butter at room temperature
3 Tbs (45 ml) Dijon-style mustard
1 tsp (5 ml) dry mustard
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped chives
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
1 Tsp (5 ml) fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 salmon steaks or fillets, about 6-8 oz (175-225 g) each
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil

Combine the butter, mustards, herbs, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Roll the mixture into a log about 4 inches (10 cm) long and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm. Rub the salmon steaks with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a grill over moderate heat and cook, turning once, until the flesh is firm to the touch and opaque throughout. Place a 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick slice of the butter on each portion. Serves 4 to 6.

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For some reason many people are put off by anchovies, but they are a common flavoring ingredient in much of Europe and should be used more often elsewhere. This sauce is a complex chorus of flavors, with anchovies being just a single note.

Grilled Tuna in Anchovy Sauce

4-6 tuna steaks, about 6 oz (170 g) each
1-2 Tbs (15-30 ml) olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Sauce:
1 can (2 oz, 56 g) anchovies, drained and rinsed
8-10 oil-cured or Mediterranean-style black olives, pitted and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine or chicken broth
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped parsley
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) capers, drained
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Brush the tuna steaks with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill, broil, or pan fry to desired degree of doneness. Combine the sauce ingredients in an electric blender or food processor and process until smooth. Spread a tablespoon (15 ml) of the sauce on each tuna fillet after they have finished cooking and serve immediately, with additional sauce on the side. Serves 4 to 6.

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The white of the halibut combined with the green broccoli and bright red cherry tomatoes makes this dish look almost as good as it tastes.

Halibut, Broccoli, and Tomato Casserole

3 cups (750 ml) broccoli florets
1 1/2 lbs (675 g) halibut fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour
2 cups (500 ml) milk
2 Tbs (30 ml) dry white wine (optional)
1 cup (250 ml) grated Swiss cheese
Paprika
1/4 cup (60 ml) slivered almonds, toasted
1 cup (250 ml) cherry tomatoes

Steam the broccoli just until it is tender but still crisp, about 4 minutes. Rinse under cold running water and set aside. Place the halibut in the center of a lightly greased baking dish and arrange the broccoli around the edges. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over moderate heat and stir in the flour. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the milk and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Add the wine, cheese, salt, and pepper and stir until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth. Pour over the halibut and broccoli, sprinkle with a little paprika and the toasted almonds. Bake uncovered in a preheated 375F (190C) oven until the fish is firm to the touch, about 20 minutes. Add the cherry tomatoes to the broccoli around the edges and bake uncovered another 5 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish just might become one of your favorite ways to cook fish.

Halibut with Egg and Lemon Sauce

2 cups (500 ml) sliced onion
1 cup (250 ml) sliced carrots
1 cup (250 ml) sliced celery
2 bay (laurel) leaves
8 whole black pepper corns
2 Tbs (30 ml) salt
4 halibut steaks, about 1 in (2.5 cm) thick (other fish, such as salmon, flounder, cod, or haddock may be used)
2 tsp (10 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
2 eggs
4 Tbs (60 ml) fresh lemon juice

Place the onions, carrots, celery, bay leaves, peppercorns, and salt in the bottom of a wide shallow pan. Add 4 cup (1 L) water and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Add the fish, plus more water if necessary to cover the fish, and simmer (do not boil) for 10 minutes. Mix the cornstarch with a little cold water. Ladle and strain about 2 cups (500 ml) of the poaching liquid into a small saucepan and add the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly over moderate heat until it boils and thickens. In a separate bowl beat the eggs lightly, then add the lemon juice and beat until thoroughly combined. Add a little of the thickened sauce to the lemon egg mixture, then add the lemon egg mixture to the saucepan. Stir constantly until the sauce thickens, but DO NOT BOIL. Carefully lift the fish out of the pan and serve covered with the sauce. May be served either hot or cold. Serves 4.

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While we're appreciating the many virtues and varied uses of nuts, let's not forget that their natural crunchiness makes them excellent candidates for toppings on sweet and savory dishes. Here's what I'm talking about:

Halibut with Walnut Gratin

4-6 halibut steaks, about 6 oz (170 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped walnuts
1 cup (250 ml) grated cheddar cheese
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry bread crumbs

Season the halibut steaks with salt and pepper and place in a greased baking dish. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Combine the walnuts, cheddar cheese, and bread crumbs and sprinkle the mixture over the fish. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven until the fish is firm and opaque and the topping is golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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Veronique is a fancy French term for dishes that contain grapes. Call it what you will, this dish is quick, easy, and delicious.

Herbed Halibut Veronique

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh tarragon, or 2 tsp (10 ml) dried
4-6 halibut fillets, or other firm, white fish, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon mustard
1 cup (250 ml) seedless green or red grapes

Combine the cream, wine, and tarragon in a skillet large enough to hold the fish in a single layer and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper and add to the skillet. Simmer covered until the fish is cooked through and firm to the touch, about 8 minutes. Transfer the fish to a warm platter and stir the mustard into the sauce. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened, about 10 minutes. Add the grapes and heat through. Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Use whatever fish is available in your area, just as the Iroquois do when making this traditional dish.

Iroquois Fish Stew

2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) steaks of trout, bass, catfish, or other firm white fish
8 cups (2 L) water
1 large onion, sliced
2 cups (500 ml) sliced mushrooms
2 cups (500 ml) lima beans
2 Tbs (30 ml) cornmeal
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh dill plus additional for garnish

Combine all ingredients in a pot and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 30 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped dill. Serves 4 to 6.

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Salmoriglio, a simple sauce from Sicily, is used to add flavor to seafood and poultry dishes all over Italy.

Italian Grilled Fish with Oregano Sauce (Pesce al Salmoriglio)

4-6 fillets of firm white fish such as swordfish, halibut, or cod
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the salmoriglio sauce:
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
2 tsp (10 ml) finely chopped fresh oregano leaves or 1 tsp (5 ml) dried
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped (optional)

Season the fish generously with salt and pepper and grill over hot coals or under a preheated broiler until firm and opaque. Combine the ingredients for the sauce in a bowl and whisk vigorously to make an emulsion. Spoon over the cooked fish and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Many Italian-Americans are surprised at the quantity and variety of seafood they find when they go to Italy because it is much more abundant and affordable than it is here.

Italian Tuna with Tomatoes and Bay Leaves (Tonno al Pomodoro e Alloro)

3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4-6 tuna steaks, about 6 oz (170 g) each, and about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2-3 large tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 bay (laurel) leaves
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1 Tbs (15 ml) red wine vinegar
Chopped parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Season the tuna steaks on both sides with salt and pepper and cook just long enough to lightly brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the tuna to a plate and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion to the skillet. Saute until tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, wine, and vinegar and cook uncovered until the tomatoes have formed a thick sauce, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the tuna to the pan and cook covered until the tuna is done to the degree of doneness you prefer, 2 to 3 minutes for medium rare, or 8 to 10 minutes for well done. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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I haven't published as many Japanese recipes over the years, primarily because the Japanese style of eating doesn't fit very well with the "Monday's Starter, Tuesday's Soup or Salad, etc." weekly format of the ezine. That's an error I hope to partially correct with this simple and elegant treatment for the common salmon.

Japanese "Mother and Child" Salmon (Ikura Donburi)

1/4 lb (125 g) salmon roe
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce
2 Tbs (30 ml) sake* (Japanese rice wine)
1 Tbs (15 ml) mirin** (Japanese sweet cooking wine)
1-2 lbs (900-1800 g) salmon fillets
Juice of 1 lemon
1 sheet nori** (dried seaweed), crushed (optional)
Wasabi** (Japanese "horseradish")
Cooked white rice (optional)

* Available in any good liquor store
** Available in finer supermarkets and Asian specialty shops

Combine the salmon roe, soy sauce, sake, and mirin in a small bowl and marinate for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place the salmon fillets in a baking dish and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Cook under a preheated broiler until browned on top and barely cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the salmon to a platter and spoon the roe mixture on top. Sprinkle with crushed nori if desired. Alternately, flake the cooked salmon with a fork and place on a bed of cooked white rice. Top with roe mixture and optional nori. Serve with wasabi. Serves 4 to 6.

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Halibut, with its sturdy flesh, is ideal for outdoor grilling.

Lemon Halibut

2 Tbs (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 Tbs (15 ml) grated lemon zest
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 halibut fillets, about 6 oz (150 g) each, and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick

For the sauce:
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) capers, drained
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

Combine the olive oil, parsley, lemon zest, salt, and pepper and rub this mixture into both sides of the halibut fillets. Grill the fish directly over hot coals about 4 to 5 minutes per side, until it is opaque in the center and firm to the touch. Meanwhile, combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Remove the fish from the grill and spoon the sauce over it. Serves 4 to 6.

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You can use any delicate fish fillets for this dish, but then you already knew that, didn't you?

Lime-Ginger Red Snapper

1 1/2-2 lbs (675-900 g) red snapper fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup (125 ml) lime juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) grated onion
1 tsp (5 ml) powdered ginger
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
1 lime, thinly sliced

Place the fish fillets in a shallow baking pan and season with salt and pepper. Mix together the lime juice, onion, and ginger and pour over the fish. Drizzle with the butter and place the lime slices on top of the fish. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish is firm and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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You can use canned salmon in this recipe, but I prefer to use thinly sliced raw or cold-smoked salmon instead.

Linguine with Salmon Sauce

1 lb (450 g) linguine or pasta shape of your choice
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
2-4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine or bottled clam juice
1/2 cup (125 ml) water
8 oz (228 g) thinly sliced raw or cold-smoked salmon, or flaked canned salmon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Juice of 1 lemon
Chopped parsley for garnish

Cook the linguine according to package directions but drain it about 2 minutes before it is done. Heat the oil in a large skillet big enough to hold the cooked pasta and saute the garlic for about 30 seconds. Add the wine, water, salmon, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Add the drained pasta and cook, shaking the skillet frequently, until the pasta is completely cooked and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Add the lemon juice immediately before serving and garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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My parents, who are otherwise exceptionally intelligent and rational people, aren't fond of seafood and pasta combinations, yet they both like that old condensed cream of mushroom glop tuna casserole thing. Go figure. The next time you get a craving for tuna casserole, please try this dish instead.

Linguine with Tuna and Arugula

1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 can (6 oz, 170 g) tuna, preferably Italian tuna packed in olive oil, drained
3 Tbs (45 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Hot red pepper flakes to taste (optional)
1 lb (450 g) linguine or other noodle, cooked according to package directions and drained
1 bunch arugula (rocket), trimmed and coarsely chopped

Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion and bell pepper until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add the tuna, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and optional pepper flakes, stirring to combine. Toss with the cooked linguine and arugula and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Get rid of those cans of condensed soups because here is a "tuna noodle casserole" like you've never tasted before. Use the Italian tuna packed in olive oil for an authentic flavor.

Linguine with Tuna, Capers, and Olives

1 7-oz (200 g) can tuna, drained and flaked
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 lb (125 g) mixed black and green olives
3 Tbs (45 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 Tbs (45 ml) chopped fresh parsley
3 Tbs (45 ml) small capers, drained
1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4-6 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped (optional)
Hot red pepper flakes to taste (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) fresh linguini or fettuccine, or 1/2 lb (225 g) dried

Combine all ingredients except the pasta in a large serving bowl and stir to combine. Cook the fresh pasta in boiling salted water until al dente, 1 to 2 minutes, or according to package directions if using dried. Drain the pasta and toss with the sauce in the bowl. Serves 4 to 6.

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Most French chefs go apoplectic at the thought of browning garlic for fear that it will ruin the dish, but in Mexico they know that a little browning gives garlic a unique, subtle flavor.

Mexican Fish in Garlic Sauce (Pescado al Mojo de Ajo)

4-6 fillets of firm white fish such as bass, catfish, or perch
Freshly squeezed lime juice
Salt
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil
10-12 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
About 1/2 cup (125 ml) all-purpose flour seasoned with salt and freshly ground pepper
The juice of 1 lime
Chopped parsley for garnish

Drizzle the fish with lime juice, sprinkle with salt, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Heat the butter and oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the garlic until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and set aside. Dredge the fish fillets in the flour mixture, shake off the excess, and saute in the butter and oil mixture until golden brown on both sides and cooked through. Transfer the fish to a serving platter. Add the reserved garlic, lime juice, and parsley to the pan and stir to loosen the brown bits in the bottom of the pan. Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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This is an old-fashioned recipe from Mexico that deserves a place in your standard repertoire because of its ease of preparation and magnificent flavor.

Mexican Fish in Orange Juice (Pescado Naranjado)

4-6 individual steaks (about 6 oz, 170 g each) firm white fish such as cod, halibut, or turbot
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
All-purpose flour for dredging
1/2 cup (125 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1-2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and finely chopped (optional)
About 1 cup (250 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice

Season the fish steaks with salt and pepper and dust lightly with flour. Mix together the parsley, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, and optional jalapeno pepper and spread the mixture on both sides of the fish steaks. Arrange the fish in a single layer in a lightly greased baking dish just big enough to hold the. Pour enough orange juice over the fish barely cover it and bake covered in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish is opaque, firm to the touch, and flakes easily with a fork, about 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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If you're one of those poor souls who can't tolerate the flavor of cilantro, please use parsley in its place in this quick and easy dish.

Mexican Fish with Cilantro (Pescado con Cilantro)

3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) firm white fish fillets such as
red snapper, striped bass, or flounder
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
1-3 jalapeno or similar hot chiles, seeded and finely chopped

Heat the oil in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Season the fish with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Place in a greased baking dish big enough to hold the fish in a single layer. Top the fish with the sauteed onion, cilantro, and jalapenos. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the fish is firm and opaque, 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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This classic Mexican dish is a world-class fish recipe. Many travelers to Mexico are surprised at the number of seafood items on restaurant menus. The abundance of fish in the gulf of Mexico and the Sea of Cortez account in part for this, as do the thousands of miles of coastline on two oceans. But the real clue to the popularity of seafood in Mexico is the love of fine food that the Mexican people have demonstrated in the creation and evolution of their unique cuisine.

Mexican Red Snapper a la Veracruzana (Huachinango a la Veracruzana)

6 large red snapper fillets or other firm, white-fleshed fish fillets
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour seasoned with salt and pepper
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups (500 ml) tomato puree
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cinnamon
A pinch of ground cloves
2-4 fresh or canned jalapeños or other locally available hot chiles, seeded and cut into strips
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 tsp (2 ml) sugar
12 small new potatoes, cooked and peeled
1/2 cup (125 ml) pimiento-stuffed green olives, cut in half

Dust the fish fillets lightly with the seasoned flour. Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and saute the fillets until golden but not completely cooked. Set aside. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of the oil, the onion and the garlic to the skillet, and fry until the onion is transparent but not brown. Add the tomato puree, cinnamon, and cloves and cook over moderate to low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chiles, lemon juice, sugar, and salt and pepper to taste, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, add the potatoes and fish fillets and cook for an additional 5 minutes, or until the fish is firm and flakes easily. To serve, arrange the fish on a hot serving platter and cover with the sauce, surrounded by the potatoes and garnished with the olives. Serves 6.

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The marinade for this dish is called charmoula and is a classic Moroccan seasoning for fish and seafood.

Moroccan-Style Fish with Spinach

For the charmoula:
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
4-6 scallions (spring onions), finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh parsley
2 tsp (10 ml) chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)
2 tsp (10 ml) paprika
1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne, or more to taste
The grated zest of 1 lemon
Salt to taste

4-6 fillets (about 6 oz (170 g) each) firm white fish such as haddock, turbot, or cod
3 Tbs (45 ml) olive oil
1 1/2 lbs (1350 g) potatoes, sliced
1 onion, chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, chopped
4-6 tomatoes, chopped
1 lb (450 g) fresh spinach, shopped
Lemon or lime wedges for garnish

Combine the ingredients for the charmoula. Place the fish fillets in a large bowl or plastic bag and cover with the charmoula. Marinate refrigerated for 1 to 3 hours. Heat the oil in a large heavy pot and saute the potatoes, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, and tomatoes and cook until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach and stir to combine. Place the fish fillets on top of the vegetables and pour the marinade over the fish. Cook tightly covered over medium-low heat until the fish is firm and opaque, 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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Seafood is always a good thing to cook when you're pressed for time because it cooks so quickly. You can even pop the salmon fillets into the oven frozen-just be sure to adjust the cooking time accordingly.

Mustard-Crusted Salmon

2 Tbs (30 ml) red wine vinegar
2 Tbs (30 ml) sugar
2 Tbs (30 ml) Dijon-style mustard
2 tsp (10 ml) dry mustard
1 tsp (5 ml) dried thyme
1/3 cup (80 ml) vegetable oil
4-6 salmon fillets, about 6 ounces (170g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) bread crumbs

Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustards, and thyme in an electric blender. With the motor running, pour the oil in a thin stream to make a semi-thick sauce. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and arrange them skin side down in a lightly greased baking dish. Spread about 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the sauce over each fillet to cover completely. Press the bread crumbs onto the fillets and bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven until the topping is crisp and golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Serve with the remaining mustard sauce on the side. Serves 4 to 6.

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Any firm white fish can be added to this stew, but haddock and cod are the most traditional. Other suitable fish include striped bass, halibut, and hake.

New England Fish Stew

1/4 lb (110 g) bacon cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) pieces
2 medium onions, chopped
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine
3 cups (750 ml) fish stock or bottled clam juice
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream or half-and-half
1 lb (450 g) red potatoes with their skin, cut into
1-inch (2 cm) pieces
1 lb (450 g) turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2 cm) cubes
2 bay (laurel) leaves
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 lbs (1.35 Kg) firm white fish fillets such as cod or haddock cut into 4-ounce (110 g) pieces
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Cook the bacon in a large heavy pot over moderate heat until it begins to crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and fish stock and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Add the cream, potatoes, turnips, bay leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper and simmer until the potatoes and turnips are almost done, about 15 minutes. Add the fish and simmer gently for 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand covered until the fish is cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley. Serves 6 to 8.

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This dish came from a cookbook I received as a wedding present about 30 years ago. The cookbook is long gone, having chosen to stay with the former wife rather than with me, so I have been making this dish from memory ever since.

Perch with Cheese Sauce and Grapes

1 1/2-2 lbs (675-900 g) perch fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Flour for dredging
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter

For the sauce:
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) shredded cheddar cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) sour cream
1/2 tsp (2 ml) paprika
1 cup (250 ml) seedless grapes

Season the perch fillets with salt and pepper and coat lightly with flour. Heat the butter in a skillet over high heat and brown the fillets lightly on both sides. Transfer to a shallow baking dish. To make the sauce, heat the butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 3 minutes. Add the milk and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and add the cheese, sour cream, and paprika, stirring until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth. Pour the sauce over the fish and scatter the grapes on top. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 15 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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As with all fish dishes, freshness is important. Unless you have access to fresh salmon that was caught locally, you're probably better off buying frozen salmon.

Poached Salmon in Tomato Broth

4 medium tomatoes
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine or chicken stock
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 tsp (5 ml) fennel seeds
4-6 salmon fillets or steaks (about 4 oz (120 g) each)
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh basil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Peel and seed the tomatoes.* Puree the tomatoes in an electric blender or food processor. Combine the pureed tomatoes, wine or broth, butter, and fennel seeds in a large skillet over moderate heat. Place salmon fillets on top and sprinkle with the chopped basil. Season with salt and pepper and simmer covered for 10 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.
* To peel and seed tomatoes: Make a small x-shaped incision in the bottom of the tomato using a sharp paring knife. Plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for 10 seconds. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. The peel should slide off easily. Cut the tomatoes in half and squeeze the seeds out, using your fingers or a small spoon to scoop them out if necessary.

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I had the great good fortune to grow up in a house where my mother cooked. She is not only descended from a long line of great cooks, but is a world class cook in her own right. Having lived on three continents, and traveled widely on all the rest (except for the gastronomic wasteland of Antarctica), she never failed to astound our family with the range of her culinary gifts. We never know, from one dinner to the next, whether we will be sitting down to an Indonesian rijsttafel, a Uruguayan milanesa, an Indian curry, or a French bouillabaisse, to mention just a small sampling of her amazing repertoire. I have her to thank not only for my love of great food, but for this week's recipes as well.

Poached Salmon with Watercress Sauce

2 to 3 lbs (1 to 1.5 Kg) salmon fillet (you may use a whole fillet, or individual portions)
1 recipe court bouillon (see below)
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) chopped watercress
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) mayonnaise
1 Tbs (15 ml) wine vinegar
1 shallot, chopped
Salt and ground white pepper to taste
Cucumber and lemon slices for garnish

Tie the salmon in cheesecloth and place on a rack in a poacher, or wide saucepan with a tightly fitting lid. Cover with the cold court bouillon and bring to a simmer over high heat. Do not boil. Cook for 10 minutes per inch (2.5 cm) of thickness of the fish. Remove from the heat and allow the fish to cool in the court bouillon. Chill in the refrigerator for at least two hours before serving. For the sauce, combine the watercress, mayonnaise, vinegar, shallot, salt, and pepper in a food processor or electric blender and puree until smooth. Pour over the chilled salmon and garnish with the cucumber and lemon slices. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer, or 4 to 6 as a main course.

Court Bouillon

3 cups (750 ml) water
1 cup (250 ml) wine vinegar
1 medium onion, sliced
1 carrot, sliced
1 celery stalk, sliced
1 leek, trimmed and sliced, white part only (optional)
3 fennel stalks, sliced (optional)
1 sprig of fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
2 Tbs (30 ml) salt
8 white peppercorns

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes. Strain and reserve the liquid. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).

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It is ironic that in a country with a bounty of fresh local seafood, the most popular fish is one that is not local. Portuguese fishermen began the cod fishing industry in the North Atlantic in the 16th century, spending six months at sea catching, cleaning, and salting the once plentiful fish. While it is not as abundant (and inexpensive) as it once was, salt cod (bacalhau in Portuguese) is still the basis of many of Portugal's best-loved dishes. This one is named for a restaurateur from the coastal city of Porto, and is considered by some to be the best of all the bacalhau dishes.

Portuguese Potato, Onion, and Salt Cod Casserole (Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa)

1 lb (500 g) dried salt cod
6 cups (1.5 L) boiling water
2 lbs (1 Kg) small white or new potatoes
2 to 4 Tbs (30-60 ml) olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley
Freshly ground pepper to taste
For garnish:
4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and cut into wedges
12 to 18 oil-cured black olives
Additional chopped parsley

Soak the cod in water overnight in the refrigerator, changing the water several times. Drain and rinse well. Place the cod in a large saucepan and add the boiling water. Simmer over moderate heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the cod flakes easily. Drain and rinse well, and flake into small pieces, removing any bones and bits of skin. Boil the potatoes until tender but firm, drain, and allow to cool. Peel and slice the potatoes into 1/4 inch (5 mm) slices. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until tender but not brown. Remove the onions and garlic from the skillet and set aside. Add the sliced potatoes to the skillet, along with more olive oil if necessary, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden brown. Layer half the potatoes in a well greased 2 quart (2 L) casserole or gratin dish. Sprinkle with parsley and pepper, add one third of the onion mixture, and half the cod. Repeat, ending with a layer of the onion mixture. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until hot and lightly browned. Arrange the egg wedges and olives attractively on top, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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This is one of my favorite ways to cook fish, and I think it works particularly well with salmon.

Roasted Salmon with Marinated Lentils

4 to 6 salmon steaks, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) butter
1 recipe Marinated Lentils (see below)
Lemon wedges for garnish

Combine the salmon steaks, soy sauce, lemon juice, and the pepper in a large bowl and toss to coat the salmon. Marinate at room temperature for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a large skillet over high heat and cook the salmon steaks until browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Turn the steaks over, add the reserved marinade to the pan and place in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until the fish is firm and opaque in the center. Place a portion of the lentils in the center of individual serving plates and place the salmon steaks on top of the lentils. Garnish with a lemon wedge. Serves 4 to 6.

Marinated Lentils

1 cup (250 ml) dried lentils, picked over and rinsed
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
1 bay (laurel) leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh parsley
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
Light Vinaigrette Dressing (see below)
Lettuce leaves
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh chives

Combine the lentils, chicken broth, carrot, onion, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer until the lentils are tender, 30 to 45 minutes, adding more liquid if necessary. Drain the lentils and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the parsley, shallot, and vinaigrette dressing and toss to combine thoroughly. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight. Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves, and sprinkle with fresh chives just prior to serving. Serves 4 to 6.

Light Vinaigrette Dressing

2 tsp (10 ml) Dijon mustard
2 Tbs (30 ml) red wine vinegar
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients and beat with a whisk until smooth.

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The famous Salade Niçoise is one of those dishes everyone has heard of, many have eaten, and few have prepared. If your guests have trouble with "fancy French food" at your next luncheon, just call this "Potato and Tuna Salad."

Salade Niçoise

For the potatoes:
1 lb (450 g) boiling potatoes, cut 1/4 in (5mm) thick
2 Tbs (30 ml) thinly sliced scallions, including some green tops
4 Tbs (60 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley

For the vinaigrette:
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice or wine vinegar
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dry mustard
1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the salad:
1 large head Boston or romaine lettuce, separated, washed, and dried
4 ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges
3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and quartered
1 7-oz (197 g) can of tuna fish (preferably packed in olive oil) drained
1/2 cup (125 ml) black olives (brine cured or oil cured)
12 anchovy fillets, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes, drained and dried
2 cups (500 ml) string beans (haricots), cooked and chilled
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped fresh parsley.

Boil the potato slices for 10 minutes, or until tender but firm. Drain and set aside. Make the vinaigrette by whisking together the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and dry mustard. Add the olive oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Add about 1/3 of the vinaigrette, the scallions, and the parsley to the potatoes, tossing to coat them completely, and chill in the refrigerator for at least half an hour. Combine another 1/3 of the vinaigrette with the tuna, tossing gently so as to leave rather large chunks of meat. Line a large salad bowl with the lettuce leaves and place the potatoes on the bottom of the bowl. Arrange the tomato wedges, egg quarters, tuna chunks, olives, anchovies, and green beans in an attractive pattern. Or you may make individual arrangement on dinner plates. The dish may be prepared several hours in advance up to this point and refrigerated. Spoon the remaining vinaigrette over the salad just before serving and sprinkle the parsley on top. Serve with warm French bread. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish can be made with any delicately flavored fish such as flounder, sole, skate, or even halibut. Beurre noisette, or brown butter, is a classic French sauce frequently served with fish, vegetables, and organ meats. For best results, use clarified butter.

Clarified butter is simply the fat contained in butter with all the water and milk solids removed. To make it, melt some butter over low heat and cook it until it stops bubbling. Skim off and discard any foam that rises to the top and pour off and reserve the clear golden liquid, discarding the milk solids in the bottom of the pan. With the milk solids removed, clarified butter has a higher smoke point and can be used for cooking at higher temperatures. It is also slower to go rancid than unclarified butter and can be stored almost indefinitely in the refrigerator.

Salmon Fillets in Beurre Noisette

4-6 salmon fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) plus 1/4 cup (60 ml) clarified butter
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers (optional)
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh parsley (optional)
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice (optional)

Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and saute in 2 tablespoons (30 ml) clarified butter in a skillet over moderate heat until golden brown on both sides and barely cooked through. In a separate skillet, heat the remaining clarified butter over moderate heat until it is light brown and aromatic. This is the classic beurre noisette and can be spooned over the cooked salmon as is, or any combination of the optional ingredients may be added immediately prior to serving. Serves 4 to 6.

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My source for this recipe, an Australian cookbook, calls for "lemonade fruits," a cross between a lime and a tangelo which is unheard of in other parts of the world. I have substituted lime and grapefruit wedges for the garnish.

Salmon in Orange Sauce

4-6 salmon fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice

For the sauce:
3/4 cup (180 ml) orange juice
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped fresh ginger
1 scallion, white part only, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1 Tbs (15 ml) honey
1 Tbs (15 ml) green peppercorns (optional)
1 tsp (5 ml) soy sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) sesame oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the garnish:
1 orange, peeled
1 lime, peeled
1 grapefruit, peeled

Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and place skin side down in a lightly greased baking dish. Drizzle with the lemon juice and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven until firm, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile boil the orange juice, ginger, and scallion in a small saucepan over moderate heat until it is reduced to about 1/4 cup (60 ml). Whisk in the remaining sauce ingredients. Cut sections from the orange, lime, and grapefruit, separating the flesh from the membranes. Spoon the sauce over the salmon fillets and garnish with the citrus sections. Serves 4 to 6.

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To be perfectly honest, you can serve this sauce with any fish, or if you want to stick to salmon (one of my favorites), you can cook it any way you want because this dish is all about the sauce. In fact, you don't even need to put it on fish because it's also great on chicken breasts, pork chops, and patties and cutlets of all kinds, It's also great all by itself as a topping for pasta.

Salmon in Tomato Cream Sauce

1-2 cans (15 oz, 425g each) chopped tomatoes with liquid
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream or half-and-half
1 Tbs (15 ml) anchovy paste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Hot sauce to taste (optional)
4-6 salmon fillets, grilled, broiled, sauteed, or poached

Combine the tomatoes, cream, anchovy paste, salt, pepper, and optional hot sauce in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until reduced by about a third, 10 to 15 minutes. Spoon over cooked salmon. Serves 4 to 6.

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If there are still some men in your life who won't eat quiche, you can call this a salmon and egg pie.

Salmon Quiche

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) flaked cooked or canned salmon, skin and bones removed
3 Tbs (45 ml) chopped fresh dill
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 9-inch (23 cm) pie shell
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/4 cup (310 ml) heavy cream, half-and-half, or milk

Melt the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the shallot until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the salmon, dill, salt, and pepper and transfer to the pie shell. Combine the eggs and cream and pout over the salmon mixture. Bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven for 35 to 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serves 4 to 6.

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This combination of sauteing and oven roasting is a technique used by professional chefs, but it's so simple that any home cook can do it. Make this dish and you'll be cooking like a pro.

Salmon with Buttered Almonds

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1 cup (250 ml) blanched slivered almonds
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) skinless salmon fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish

Heat the butter in a large heavy skillet with an oven-proof handle over moderate heat. Saute the almonds just until they begin to turn color, about 3 minutes. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and place them in the skillet. Spoon the almonds and butter over the salmon. Place the skillet in a preheated 450F (230C) oven until the fish is firm and flakes easily, about 8 to 10 minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish could be made with any steak fish such as turbot or halibut, but I like salmon. It's easy to find just about everywhere, relatively inexpensive (as fish goes these days), and it's high in Omega-3 fatty acids.

Salmon with Three-Melon Salsa

3/4 cup (180 ml) each: diced cantaloupe (muskmelon), watermelon, and honeydew melon, or any ripe fresh melons in season
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped red onion
2 Tbs (30 ml) fresh lime juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped jalapeno pepper, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 salmon steaks

Combine all ingredients except the salmon in a non-reactive bowl and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or refrigerate overnight. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and grill over hot coals or under a preheated broiler for about 4 minutes per side. Top with salsa at room temperature and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Any firm fish such as swordfish, tuna, halibut, or cod can be used in this dish. I'm partial to salmon not only for the high dosage of heart-healthy Omega-3 fats it contains, but also because it's one of the least expensive types of fish available in my area.

Salmon with Thyme Sauce

4-6 salmon fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbs (45 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped parsley

Season the salmon fillets generously with salt and pepper and pan-fry, broil, or grill until the flesh is firm and opaque. Meanwhile, combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until emulsified. Spoon the sauce over the salmon and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Fregola is a tiny pasta shape similar to couscous that is very popular in Sardinia. In fact, it is usually sold as "fregola sarda," or "fregola from Sardinia." You can buy it from Amazon.com here or you can substitute any tiny pasta shape such as pastina or semi di melone.

Sardinian Fish with Fregola

4 Tbs (60 ml) olive oil
4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley plus additional for garnish
1/2 tsp (2 ml) red pepper flakes, or to taste
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) fillets of firm white fish such as red snapper, cod, haddock, or halibut, or any combination of these, cut into large chunks
1 15-oz (425 can) chopped tomatoes with their liquid
1 1/2 cup (375 ml) uncooked fregola
3 cups (750 ml) fish stock, clam juice, or water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a large heavy pot over moderate heat and saute the garlic, parsley, and red pepper flakes for 5 minutes. Add the fish and remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the fregola is cooked, about 15 minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 4 to 6.

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This recipe is about as simple as they come, and your minimal effort will be rewarded with a memorable dish you'll want to repeat in the future.

Sesame-Crusted Salmon

4-6 salmon fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each, skinned
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) sesame or vegetable oil
About 1/4 cup (60 ml) sesame seeds

Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Rub both sides with a little sesame oil and coat the fillets with sesame seeds. Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet, preferably non-stick, over moderate heat until the oil shimmers. Place the salmon fillets in the skillet and cook without moving them until the bottoms are browned and the bottom half of the fillets are opaque, about 5 minutes. Turn the fillets and cook, without moving them, until the flesh is opaque and firm to the touch, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Fish recipes don't get much simpler than this. You can use this technique with any fish fillet, and remember that the skin gives added flavor.

Teriyaki Salmon

1 Tbs (15 ml) sesame oil
4-6 salmon fillets, about 6 oz (170 g) each
1/4 cup (60 ml) prepared teriyaki sauce
2-3 tsp (10-15 ml) sesame seeds
Lemon wedges for garnish

Heat the sesame oil in a large, heavy skillet (preferably non-stick) until it begins to smoke. Place the salmon fillets in the oil skin side down and remove from the heat immediately. Spoon or brush the teriyaki sauce over the fillets, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and place the skillet in a preheated 350F (180C) oven. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the salmon is firm to the touch. Serve immediately, garnished with lemon wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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There are few fish better suited to grilling than fresh tuna, and this recipe makes the best of it.

Thyme Tuna Steaks

4-6 tuna steaks, about 1 inch (3 cm) thick
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon or lime juice
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a sealable plastic bag or shallow pan and marinade in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Grill the tuna over hot coals until cooked to the degree you prefer. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here is a classic American dish that usually calls for a can or two of the dreaded canned condensed you-know-what, but this recipe uses a béchamel sauce instead. I'm sure that you'll agree that the added effort is well worthwhile in terms of flavor and nutrition.

Tuna Noodle Casserole

For the topping:
2 cups (500 ml) bread crumbs
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 1/2 cups (375 ml, 3 sticks) melted butter
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped parsley
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the filling:
2 Tbs (30 ml) olive oil or butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper (capsicum), cored, seeded, and finely chopped
1 green bell pepper (capsicum), cored, seeded, and finely chopped
12 oz (335 g) sliced mushrooms
1 lb (450 g) wide egg noodles
3 6-oz (170 g) white tuna (preferably packed in oil), drained

For the sauce:
3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour
4 cups (1 L) milk
1/2 tsp (2 ml) celery seeds
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

Combine the ingredients for the topping in a bowl, stir to combine, and set aside.

To make the filling, heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion, bell peppers, and mushrooms until tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Cook the noodles in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, drain, and add to the vegetable mixture along with the drained tuna. Set aside.

To make the sauce, heat the butter in a pot over moderate heat and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes. Add the milk, celery seeds, salt, pepper, and optional cayenne and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the sauce to the filling mixture and stir to combine thoroughly.

Pour the filling into a greased 9x13-inch (23x33 cm) and sprinkle with the topping. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until the top is golden brown and the center is bubbling, about 30 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.

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